Arrive and Drive - France and Belgium

Blog 6 - Bonjour, baguette: here it is the Western Front.

After possibly the worst flight ever (turning the lights off mid-flight does NOT necessarily mean everyone will sleep) everyone was pretty haggard by the time we landed in Paris – except for Jason who slept the whole trip.

We met Mike, our new tour guide, after grabbing our luggage at Charles de Gaulle airport. We were a bit worried about Mike after having the world's best tour guide, Toy, but he turned out to be a decent guy who eased us into our tour de France by taking us to a roadside diner, where we had out first croissant.

On our drive north to Belgium, the tour bus detoured to Compiegne, where the Armistice was signed in 1918. We were able to walk around the replica of the original rail carriage where the Allies and Axis powers signed the cease-fire at 5.00am on 11 November 1918.

Having seen where the war ended, eventually, travelled to Belgium, land of goodness, and stopped at our first cemetery, the Rampart, which is set on the edge of Ypres. It really is very beautiful cemetery, with a relatively small number of graves.

I guess this really helped to make it a personal place.

After our first of many cemeteries for this week, we walked to Menin Gate. It is an incredibly imposing place and is filled with names of Allied soldiers, killed in the battles around Ypres, but whose bodies were never found.

For me it was very emotional as my digger's name was on one of the walls along with a few other members of the groups diggers.
We only spent a short time at the memorial as we would return several more times. We then walked a few hundred metres into the town centre and it was there we saw a huge replica of the Cloth Hall and tower, which was destroyed by the Germans in the battle for Ypres. We also saw lots of chocolate shops and some more beautiful buildings in the town square.

It was here that we had our first Belgian lunch and it was good except for the fact that it was one massive omelette.

We visited a cemetery called Menin Road South for Sam to commemorate her adopted digger. She told us about the life and death of Leonard Errey and how that family name is quite well known in Camperdown, where she comes from. A few of us had a little cry and it definitely wasn't the last we would share.

Even though we'd flown for 12 hours and been on buses for another 6, we were on a roll at this point and we travelled to Hill 60 for a history lesson from Professor Bruce and to pay tribute to Darcy's digger.

At Hill 60, we found a blockhouse that was surprisingly intact and the experience was really strengthened by the fact it started to drizzle.

It was time to drive back into Menin and settle in the for the nigt.
Tomorrow was a big day. And so would the next six days be.

Our Last Day In the Thai Sun

Blog 5 - Leaving Thailand and flying to France

After spending the night in the luxurious tents at Hintok River Camp, some of us woke up nice and early (5:50 am) to see the local Buddhist monks come down from the mountain and collect food, money and items from the village people.

Unfortunately, due to the fact that the next day would be a Buddhist celebration, we found out that the monks would not be making their daily route down the mountain. Not letting this ruin the occasion we decided to trek a few hundred metres to the temple where two monks live. We were given a small ornament each and listened to what the monk had to say about the PoW's that worked on the Thai-Burma railway. The monk wasn't stereotypical and his mobile phone interrupted his teaching twice – which was to us, extremely funny.

Leaving the temple, Edward was surprised to find that one of his shoes was missing (we had to take them off and leave them at the entrance). It turned out that one of the many stray dogs roaming around outside the temple had decided to take his shoe and play with it. After about 5 minutes of looking, searching and laughing, especially from John and the monk on the microphone, we found his shoe in a pile of rubbish and we were able to make our way down the mountain, back to camp and have breakfast. It definitely made a story for the other students at breakfast. That and the fact that the monk was so laid back. It was a very eventful and funny way to start the day.

After breakfast Rod Beatie took us around the Hintok River camp which sits upon land he not only used to own but was once a PoW camp at some point during WWII. He pointed out some of the main sites he had excavated and found traces not only of the PoW's but of civilisations and communities that had lived on this land many years before. Some of these discoveries he pointed out to us included that cook house and the hospital. He also talked to us in great detail about politics and the insanity of this war and of war in general.

We then piled onto the bus and travelled to the location of the PoW camp that Sir Edward “Weary” Dunlop once worked at. Rod then passed around some of the items he had recovered during his excavation of “Dunlop Camp”. He also told us about some of the engineering of the PoW's to produce showers at this particular camp. Back on the bus we looked through some of the books that we were reading and they confirmed what Rod had told us about the amazing showers made from bamboo piping down in Hintok.

From here we travelled for about 2 hours and most of us fell asleep on the bus and needed to be woken in order to see the Ban Kaow Museum. We looked at lots of rocks there, much to our pleasure, and then we again piled onto the bus and travelled to the railway station. Expecting only to wait at the station for 15 minutes for the 1:30 train to Kanchanaburi we had to wait until 3:30 for the train (due at 1.40) to finally arrive. We had a “picnic lunch at the station that consisted of fried rice, and chips – which although wasn't terrific, was enough to satisfy our hunger and all scraps were fed to some of the many stray dogs.

We were told that the reason there are so many stray dogs is because it is against the locals' religion (Buddhism) to kill a dog and therefore when people don't want or can not afford to have a dog any more they simply place them on the streets or in the care of Buddhist monks.

The train ride was filled with many songs and the hour spent on the train was withered away very quickly. Back on the bus from through heavy rush hour traffic we were finally rewarded for all our patience and waiting throughout the day when we were given a hotel room to quickly have a shower and freshen up. Travelling to the airport we said goodbye to Toy, the Bus driver and 'Wet Towel Man' (who was given an Aussie Rules football by Mckye) before having a small dinner and boarding the plane to Paris.

Our time in Thailand has been extremely memorable and has been jammed full of experiences that we have learnt from and that we will all cherish forever. Although slightly sad about leaving this country and all the people we have met we are looking forward to France and Belgium as we plunge into further study and understanding of the Western Front.

Walking and discovering the Thai-Burma Railway

Spirit of Anzac students at the Chungkai Rail Cutting

Blog 4 - The day of a million steps.

After a big night full of sweet dance moves and karaoke, we awoke to our final hours at the amazing Felix Hotel. No strangers to early starts, we were all up and about, getting ready to head out before 8.30, as usual.

We loaded our bags onto the bus and met up with Rod, before traversing our way over the high mountains and thin roads of Thailand to reach our destination – the Wang Pho Viaduct. Led by the light footed Rod, we shuffled and crept along the ten metre high rail way bridges, built by the Allied PoWs in World War II. It was a long track, over two bridges, both potted with holes, rotten boards and one annoying stray dog. After stopping on the far side, we examined and old British PoW camp know as 'Arrow head'. Looking back, we were stunned when we realised that men, hundreds of sick and dying men, had toiled every day through disease, heat, torture and general neglect at the hands of Japanese engineers and Korean guards.

On the way back over the bridges, we came across a Buddhist temple, built within the confines of a large lime stone cave. Inside we found a statue of Buddha, many little trinkets, a sleepy Thai man and a poem composed by King Rama V.

After a quick shop in some nearby markets, in which Violet finally bought her fan, and Darcy completed his Bob Marley outfit,we loaded back on the bus and were driven off to Sai Yok Noi Waterfall by our beloved Mr Abdula.

We stopped off out the front of a servo, and crossed the road, so we could ascend on our next section of the railway, where we were greeted by a mighty iron beast. The Japanese locomotive was the most common train on the line during World War II. Upon entering the trip, many of us believed that the Japanese army were nothing more than a pack of sadists, who controlled most of the war with brute tactics and sheer numbers.

But Rod's explanation of the locomotive began to slowly make us realise the true Japanese army and its engineers. The Japanese had begun surveying the area three years before the beginning of the war, as they had planned to build the rail way since the beginings of the planning of the war. Japanese railways were traditionally bigger than those of the Thai, so the brilliant Japanese engineers created expanding tires, to accommodate both the Japanese and Thai railways.

As we were distracted taking photos, Rod pointed out something quite peculiar and immoral to us; a local Thai man had wandered over to a concrete barrier at the end of the small stretch rail line with a bowl and crutch, and sat down. There, he began begging for money, preaching how he was supposedly crippled and needed our dosh (money).

We then proceeded to the waterfall, which at first sight was a natural beauty. But, as we milled around the pool at the bottom, Rob dropped another bomb of reality on us; where we stood, P.O.Ws had slaved away, constructing the Thai-Burma railway. And with their camp above the waterfall, they had to scale the precarious cliff every day. Six thousand men lived atop the waterfall, and it was a breeding ground for disease. The death toll was in the thousands, but it was yet another place where many were lost, and no one knew.

Intrigued, the bulk of the group followed Rod up many stairs to the top of the waterfall, to examine the old camp site. The stairs were to much for Jenny, Violet and Sam, so without inviting the others, the girls jumped into the waterfall and cooled off. As we loaded back on the bus, hot, sweaty and tired, bar three selfish girls, we headed off to lunch. After we'd eaten, Rod invited us to his new favourite place, and our next destination; a recently uncovered section of the Thai-Burma railway behind an old kindergarten, which he had found and cleared.

The track was three kilometres through some decent amount of forestry, described by one country SOAP as 'a fair bit of bush bashing.' We ended the trail at the site of an old bridge, now collapsed, which spanned a large gully in the mountain. There, Rod revealed to us, a small amount of artefacts from the rail way, like steel pegs and wire. It was another time to reflect on the amazing abilities of the PoWs who built the track.

We then 'bush bashed' our way back along the track to the bus. The small trip had been an effort for everyone, and there were mixed reactions when were told that our up next walk would be twice as long, and twice as hard.

We arrived at Hell Fire Pass museum and had a short look around. It was interesting and informative, but reading about it and going there are to very different things. We embarked at four o'clock, and were told we had to complete the six km mountain walk before nightfall, around six thirty.
We only walked for three hundred metres, before we reached a momentous place of Australian war history; Hell Fire Pass.

Fifteen metre high sheer rock cliffs, forty degree heat, blood thirsty mosquito's. And this was only our experience. Many places along the line, we had to imagine the PoWs and how hard there life on the line had been. But Hell fire pass needed none of that. The hardships of those men were right there in front of us, and no one left there without knowing what they had been through.

Weary Dunlops ashes were scattered under a small plaque in the rock, and it was in this place Olivia delivered her adopt a digger speech to us. Both moving and informative, the speech left us pondering, as we trekked on, determined to finish this section of the line. As we moved, we came along many more memorable and impressive places, but maybe none more than Pack of Cards Bridge. Built on the other side of a large rock cutting, the Japanese needed a bridge across the mountain, and not one to waste material, this one was unusually made of a huge pile of rocks and earth.

The problem with making these bridges is that the water would dam on the top side of the bridge in the wet season, and it could easily be washed away. But again, proving to be a testament to the Japanese genius, the created there bridges with gaps between the rocks at the bottom, so the water could run through freely and out the other side. Upon hearing this, many of us were still not that impressed, until Rod mentioned how the bridge still stood after seventy years of constant use. Built by sick, malnourished slaves, this creation of earth and rock had outlasted many creations built by technology and capable hands, but there was no time to stand around as we had to walk on.

Trudging through the bush, tired, hot, sweaty and the feeling of lead feet, we reached our final down slope to end our epic journey. It was steep and harsh but like the Australians before us, we descended the mountain into camp. Getting down was not easy, and while some opted for the 'surfing' approach, and others opted for the 'dog with worms' slide down on your bum approach, no one felt the need to use the 'John' approach.

We wandered into camp, on our last legs, only to be greeted with a nice and tasty coconut with a straw poking through. We departed to our luxury tents, complete with en suite bathrooms.
Everyone was quick to get changed, and we all headed to our river side pool. It was a natural spring, and the water was divine. Even Chris in his “budgees” could not deter us. After the plnge in the pool , the boys decided, as a last night in Thailand, they would kit up in there suits for the big barbecue dinner. It was possibly the best tea for the entire trip and a great final night.

The day had been one of many reflections. We were able to reflect on our the PoWs had suffered, and had finally seen the full force of their labour and hardship. We reflected on our sudden realisation of the Japanese armies genius in warfare, and developed a strong and stern respect for them.

We reflected on how Mckye's constant use of Aussie slang, words such as 'mate' and 'cobba', had grown on everyone, and had made the general population of us speak the same way. But most of all, we reflected on our entire time in Thailand, from the ridiculously busy streets of Bangkok, to the amazing country side, and our beautiful trips on and around the river Kwai. These images are some that will stay with us all for the rest of our lives, and will change the way we will see the world forever.

Blog 3 – Commemorations and the Thai Burma Railway Centre

After another oversized breakfast we started day 4. The day's first stop was Rod Beatie's self constructed Thai Burma Railway Centre. Rod was super passionate about his work, it showed in the presentation of the museum. We thought it was awesome and easy to comprehend.

We then travelled across the road to the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery. We wandered through the rows of headstone to identify and honour the PoW's who were mates of the veterans we had previously met: Lex, Jack and Charles. Margaret then presented her adopted digger, Edwin Britnell, and she read a letter from the digger's relatives that was heartbreaking.


Most of the group took part in the wreath laying cemetery for Doug Simpson, Graeme Baker and Geoffrey Vellacott – the mates of the former PoWs we had promised to remember.

Darcy recited the ode and two buglers from the Royal Thai Army played the last post and reveille. The majority of the group shared in a sob sesh. The time we spent at the cemetery was the most moving part of the trip so far.

After spending lunch floating on the River Kwai looking over the famous/infamous bridge that we had previously walked over. We will remember this place as the time we encountered durian, a fruit that is really popular in south east Asia, that is supposed to smell like hell (true) but taste like heaven (not so true). After lunch we scrambled onto the “long tail boats” which were ridiculously fast. After the squashed ride we walked through the JEATH museum which didn't compare with the the exhibits and displays at the Thai Burma Railway Centre, but on the bright side there was a lady with a squirrel who knew quite a lot about koalas.

We hopped back on the long boats and powered off to the Chungkai cutting. We saw some gibbons at the monkey school and had a 'hold your breath' moment when John, our teacher chaperone, slipped down the cliff face. Taking the last ride on the longboats to Chungkai war cemetery, we had a slightly rushed service at the grave yard, across from an all denomination church that we took a look in.

Returning to the luxurious resort was such a relief after a really hot day. Violet, Jason, Mckye and I got drinks at the pool bar (cappuccinos and fruit juice all the way), it was mad. A traditional Thai dinner awaited us for dinner at the straw huts, we ate a leaf and got offered some more Durian, which we politely rejected.

We had an awesome, fantastic, ridiculously fun night at the Karaoke lounge when we got back. Jen and Liv impressed us with their singing, Jason pulled out some intimate dance moves with a French guest and in the true Anzac spirit, the rest of us partied hard :)

The day was such a mixture of emotions, but one of our best yet.

Bangkok and Beyond - Temples in Ayutthaya

Day 2

Temples in the ancient capital of Ayutthaya

Today was our first real day of exploring the rich history of Bangkok in the form of its many temples. Although we were tired and still a little shellshocked from our long flight (the first for many of us) it became obvious that religion, specifically Buddhism is a major part of Thai life.

We first visited the Summer Palace of the Royal Family, a massive complex of buildings in many different styles, also holding a powerful contrast between the slums and ruinous buildings that were apparent in many places in Bangkok. A major part of Thai decoration, it seems, is topiaries which were in every garden and even along the major highways. In the Palace we saw a turtle-hungry Water Monitor (halfway through a meal) and all the females had to wear Sarongs to follow the local customs.

From the Palace we travelled to the north, to a temple which housed the Reclining Buddha and a game we all enjoyed playing though the fortunes that we received were somewhat dodgy! After Toy (our fantastically knowledgeable native guide) explained to us the history of the three huge Stupas at the third temple complex she let us explore the market where we picked up many bargains including Bob Marley pants and Thai Boxing shorts.

On the bus ride home we played a game called How Many People Can Get To Like Us Through Waving. The results: Many hundred including people in the back of utes, one brilliant van and a man with a poodle on the handlebars of a bike.

Back at the Indra we went to the markets next to the hotel where Liv bargained her way to many designer label knockoffs, one man trying to get Darcy to buy a mobile phone shaped Tazer!

Dinner was in the style of buffet before we embarked upon the journey of discovery that is “Siam Niramit”, this show of wonders included real elephants on the stage, 500 different costumes and a full size river! We didn't understand the show much (not speaking Thai) but we all enjoyed the depiction of Buddhist fiery hell, holding a place for people who kill animals (to eaten by demons), drinkers of alcohol (boiled alive, drinking boiling water) and adulterers (climbing a thorny tree).

Today was the first full day of our journey, definitely one to remember!

High spirits as the tour begins

Day 1
Leaving for Bangkok

One by one, we trickled into the airport, from all parts of Victoria, akubra clad and excited. We were at the airport relatively on time, all ready to get to going, despite the fact we had another 3 hours of waiting in the airport before we could board our flight. Lunch and a few hundred photos before we give our kisses and final goodbyes and then through to customs. All clear and and boarded at 4:00pm, we were bouncing off the walls for the first 4 hours. Eventually we settled down into flight mode, reading, sleeping and having animated discussions over an airport-bought Cosmo (a deep thought read for the boys).

The fine Thai meals gave us a taste of Thai cuisine which added to the anticipation. We landed on time and disembarked at 9:00pm Bangkok time (1:00am in Melbourne) and after the usual wait at the baggage carousel we hurried through customs to meet our guide, 'Toy'. She and her manager draped us in leis, which confused us slightly – were we in Hawaii or Thailand – until we realised they were Thai orchids and that we were, in fact, in the heart of Bangkok, where the high rise meet the slums along the freeways, and where the humidity hits you as you step into the open air.

We were treated again in the hotel lobby with small juice called Bael, that has to be an acquired taste. Perhaps, we won't be drinking that a breakfast ... We caught the lifts to our assigned rooms, had a quick shower and, somehow, after all the excitement we were still able to sleep in our comfortable and spacious rooms, the hustle and bustle and city noises lulling us to sleep, ready to greet the new day with excitement and enthusiasm.

The Premier's Spirit of ANZAC Tour had started for real.